Seoul, South Korea

What a day! It feels like I've been traveling forever already, though I think it's actually been less than 36 hours. Had a lovely flight from LAX to Incheon in Seoul today - Asiana may be my new favorite airline. Mouthwash and nice hand lotion in the bathrooms and I swear it was somehow more spacious than usual on that airplane! I can even forgive the fact that almost all of the movies playing were in Korean.

I got to Seoul at about 6:45 this morning and had my first Dunkin of the day. It seems that Korea runs on Dunkin, too. Had a little bit of confusion regarding my luggage, which I really hope isn't lost forever, but decided there was nothing I could do about it this morning since my Korean isn't exactly up to par so I couldn't ask anyone to help, so I set out for downtown. Luckily the bus system was super duper easy and, for the very first time ever, my debit card actually worked on the first try at a foreign ATM. So I was off.

Why are airports always in the ugliest area of the country? I have noticed this several times before. You arrive somewhere, all excited and ready for remarkable sites, and then you ride through miles and miles of either industrial wasteland or swamps that have olive green fumes rising from them, before you arrive in the city from what must be the least flattering entry route possible. I thought about this today as we drove past both the wastelands and swamps. This makes me think of (a) Potemkin villages, which were fake villages - basically movie sets - Potemkin built to impress the Tsar and foreign kings boating through Russia; and (b) where were we, Athens? Where they had put new paint and prettied things up only on the sides of buildings facing the railroad tracks that led to Olympic Stadium, so it would look nicer than it actually was. Why don't they do that along the routes leading from airports? This is the first impression of the country! Might as well have some cardboard cutouts of pretty houses lining the road.

Anyway, I got off the bus right downtown at Anguk Station and wandered down Insadong. I was still a little bit early and none of the shops were open, so I made a beeline for the Starbucks and sat there for a little bit until everyone else in the city was awake (this happens at 10am). Then I browsed through all the shops and bought myself a pretty scarf, because it was about 20 degrees and I only brought clothing for the expected 98 degrees in Bangkok, so I was freeeeezing and felt like an idiot with my little crocs (and socks!). Then I walked up to Gyeongbokgung Palace and saw the changing of the guard, which was fun. Then I decided to head for Namdaemun Market, which looked like it would be a long walk on the map but I thought I had time, and probably would have had I not gotten lost. But that's ok - it is essential to get lost in every foreign city visited and I had been worried that it wouldn't happen, since I had a good map and only three hours, but luckily it worked out and I managed to lose myself somewhere on Namdaemun road. Having accomplished that, I came back to the airport and found free internet! I must also admit that, while I did make a good faith effort to eat Korean food for my lunch here, I couldn't figure out how to go about ordering said Korean food at any of the airport restaurants and so I had to settle for the Paris Baguette Cafe (sigh). At least I got to try bi bim bat on the airplane.

Based on my ridiculously short time in Seoul today, my superficial judgment is that it's not a particularly remarkable city. Sort of just seemed like any big city with lots of traffic. There was some pretty architecture and picturesque little side streets, but I didn't find it as charming as Beijing, for example. Just didn't seem as unique but of course it's entirely possible that I just didn't have time to find that uniqueness today.

I am heading out for Bangkok in another hour or so! Hopefully will see elephants in the streets!!